ETCHED LASER KIT FINISHING SUGGESTIONSÓ
by
Bonnie Soucek Miniature Creations
Note: Suggestions are always included with my kits (at least those designed/printed
in the last 18 months)...and updated as I experiment with new techniques.
Always go slowly, work under good lighting, and use a magnifying tool if necessary.
I like to use Chartpak
stain pens, Elmer’s Painters paint pens (fine point), Zig Writer pens - available
at Michaels and probably other craft/art stores - and Sharpie ultra fine point permanent marker pens (a wide variety
of colors are available). However, I’ve found some markers/writer pens do tend to bleed if wet.
Sam's
Club carried a package of 28 multi-colored Sharpie ultra fine point pens at a reasonable cost. Zig
pens have both a thin and a broader tip, perfect for coloring in detailed etched designs, and multi-coloring a piece.
Spring 2006, I found wonderful Prismacolor Premier markers (more like a stain)
in Hobby Lobby’s Art Department - a wide range of colors. Like Zig pens, each has both a thin and
a broader tip.
When using stain/markers,
as you touch point to wood, some bleed slightly into wood and up to etching lines…that’s a good thing when multi-coloring
a piece - just be more careful with pens when near etched lines. When in a tighter etched area, ever so
lightly ‘dot’ tip of pen onto wood. Add additional coats to achieve desired effect. I always
blot between coats.
When staining all
pieces with only one color...lay all pieces on wax paper. With finger or tweezers, hold piece down and drag pen across piece
until covered, allowing it to slowly 'bleed'. Blot surface with paper towel
between coats…add more as needed. If any piece
is 'etched' and will be the same color stain, firmly press stain pen into etching until totally stained -
blot with paper towel, continue staining. Allow pieces to dry; repeat process for reverse sides/edges. Allow to dry.
You may need to touch-up here/there - be sure pieces dry before gluing.
I also use a combination of stain, paint and markers – depending on the piece, following the
various application suggestions.
In some cases, a lighter
stain is recommended to preserve etched details. You can also stain a piece, let it dry, assemble kit, and then apply a coat of bottled acrylic
paint using dry-brushing method, blotting excess with paper towel.
I've also run a light-colored
Elmer's Painter's pen over assembled stained piece to lighten it and to enhance etching, blotting
with either a paper towel/kleenex (even my finger) to remove some paint, giving the piece an aged effect. Experiment...
I've also done the reverse...painted
each part, including etchings, with a light shade of a Painter's pen, let dry, assembled kit and when dry, lightly 'swept'
a stain pen over surfaces, wiped off with paper towel (again, even my finger). Re-stain/blot as desired.
When only using Elmer's Painter's pens and to preserve dark etching detail, carefully/slowly
drag tip up to but not into ‘ditch’ of etched lines –typically Painters
pens won’t bleed and etched design remains dark. If you should accidentally get a bit of paint
beyond an etched line, take a tweezers or X-acto knife and carefully
and LIGHTLY scrape off unwanted paint. This usually
works. For smaller detailing, ever so lightly ‘dot’ paint
pen on etched detail. Do the same when painting or staining around any close etched lines.
Depending on colors chosen, you may need to apply a second coat, especially white.
Some kits lend themselves well to assembling first, then
spray painting with one color– several light coats (unless it has faux glass).
In most cases, amazingly, etched detail is preserved…does not fill with paint and adds depth to the etched design.
In some cases too, I've dry-brushed white bottled acrylic paint on surface, either before or after assembly,
and then added the detailing with Sharpie markers...the white paint lightens whatever color you'll be applying.
I do not typically seal a finished piece – unless it requires gluing fabric or other embellishments to the surface.
Use your judgment here.
Caution: Read
cautionary label on any products used.
I hope these suggestions are of help...and above all...Experiment.
If you have any questions, email me at
bsoucek@comcast.net
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